The Great Blanket Debate

Should I blanket my horse, or should I leave him without a blanket? This is an ongoing debate that has plagued the horse community for years. Blanketing is common practice that is seen by many as a necessity. If the owner is cold, they give their horse an extra layer so he can keep warm. However, what many people do not realize is that in most cases, blanketing is unnecessary, and in some cases detrimental. Except for extreme conditions, such as old age, illness, heavy winds, or when a horse has been body clipped, horses should not be blanketed.

Horses are incredibly adaptive creatures: they can live in the arid deserts like that of Arabia, in the bitter cold, or just about any climate that man has inhabited and brought horses. For centuries before domestication, wild horses have been able to adapt to the climates where they lived, and have never required the pampering that many horse owners give their horses today. Feral horses of today are also well enough adapted that they can stay warm enough in the winter, providing they have enough food and a windbreak. Domesticated horses are no different. They have many ways of regulating their body temperature. The horse's digestive system produces heat as it digests fibers found it hay and other feeds, and the horse's fat, skin, and thick winter coat act as insulators, trapping the heat in to keep the horse sufficiently warm. In a process called piloerection, the horse's hair raises and lowers, depending on the temperature and wind speed. This regulates the amount of heat that is trapped in. Because of this, horses do not need blankets to help keep them warm.

Changes in the coat occur automatically, and much more quickly than it would take for someone to remove or replace a blanket. Because of this, a blanketed horse can begin to overheat by the time the blanket is removed when the daytime temperatures become warm. Furthermore, blanketing actually interferes with the process thermoregulation. As the horse tries to warm the exposed body parts, the blanketed parts sweat and overheat. “Sweating under a blanket is more of a problem metabolically to the horse than people realize”(Natalija). When blanketed or stabled for extended periods of time, the metabolic functions that control body temperature are not used–they do not need to be. As a result, if the horse is exposed to cold temperature after that, these function do not work as effectively. Consequently, the horse will be unable to heat themselves and will be too cold. Overheating or being too cold can cause a host of problems for the horse, so it best that he keeps his body heat at comfortable temperature.

As most horse owners know, blankets, like all horse equipment, are expensive. Depending on where you live, you may even have to buy multiple blankets to used during large changes in temperature, because once a horse is blanketed regularly, they do not have a winter coat to keep them warm. They may require a thick, heavy blanket when it is icy, rainy, and windy, but only a medium-weight blanket in more moderate temperatures. Furthermore, one must consider the cost of replacing broken blankets. Some horses, especially younger ones, are destructive with their blankets. Even blankets not used by horses who intentionally destroy blankets can break as a result of the rough treatment it gets from horses rolling and playing. If the horse is left uncovered however, you will probably only need to buy a light blanket for the coldest, wettest, and windiest days. As a result, you will save money because you will not need to spend as much money on blankets as you would if you blanketed your horse regularly.

Since horses can regulate their body temperature so well, even if temperatures that people find chilling and uncomfortable to be in, they do not need to be blanketed, as long as they are healthy, have enough food, have a windbreak, and are unclipped. Keeping the horses uncovered in the winter may also save the you money because you will not need to purchase blankets for your horses. For these reasons, blanketing is unnatural and unnecessary, unless the horse in unhealthy, clipped, or unadjusted to the climate, or if the weather is particularly inhospitable.

Bibliography

Aleksandrova, Natalija. “No More Blankets–An Amazing Article.” The Soul of a Horse.

2015. 1 Dec. 2015. http://thesoulofahorse.com/blog/no-more-blankets-an-amazing-article/

Krahl, Stephanie. To Blanket Your Horse or Not to Blanket...That Is the Question. The Soulful Equine. 2015. 1 Dec. 2015. http://www.soulfulequine.com/to-blanket-your-horse-or-not-to-blanket-that-is-the-question/

Williams, Carey A. Ph.D. and Ralston, Sarah L. VMD, Ph.D. Did You Know: Winter Care and Feeding. My Horse University. 2012. 1 Dec. 2015. http://www.myhorseuniversity.com/resources/eTips/November2011/Didyouknow

Winter Hoof Care

 During winter, most people are on top of blanketing their horse and altering their diet. However, the same people often neglect to take care of the special needs the hooves have in the winter, thinking that they are the same as for summer or spring. In actuality,the hooves not only grow differently but also are succeptable to various hoof ailments.

 Hoof growth is influenced by several factors, according to Eliza McGraw: the horse's health, environment, amount of exercise, and quality of hoof care. Horses exercise less in the winter, which means less circulation in the hooves and therefore less growth. They use the nutrients they get from their food to keep warm, another factor that slows the growth rate of the hooves.

 There are several things to consider when your horse's hooves grow more slowly. For example, your farrier may have to come a couple weeks later than normal, such as every eight to twelve weeks, then come more frequently in the spring when hooves grow at a rapid pace. Also consider that cracks will take longer to grow out. This means it may take longer for a horse with a cracked or damaged hoof to completely heal, regardless of how you treat it.

Wearing special snow pads like this one prevents buildup of snow and ice.
credit

 In addition to a slower hoof growth rate, winter also brings several ailments: thrush, abscesses, and hoof bruises.

 Thrush is caused by the bacteria Fusobacterium necrophorum, which thrives in moist environments, particularly mud. It is easily recognizable by its characteristical black ooze.

  Hoof bruises can result from riding your horse over hard, frozen ground, causing soreness and lameness, and requires the assistance of both your farrier and vet. They will test the hoof to find the sore area and then will either pare down the affected hoof or recommend special shoes or pads.

 Abscesses are pus-filled pockets inside the hoof, caused by an infection or foriegn object. Usually you should let them drain on their own and use something to reduce infection.

Snow may also become packed in your horse's hooves, especially in freezing temperatures, melting slightly when touching the hoof, the re-freezing. Preventing it using special snow pads is best.

 Making sure you are aware of the specific needs of your horse's hooves and acting quickly can keep you horse safer and healthier this winter.

Winter Riding Tips

  Despite the cold and uninviting temperatures that occur in many places during the winter, it is important to keep up an as regular a riding schedule as time and weather conditions will allow. It not only keeps your horse fit for the fast approaching show season, but also benefits his mental health as well.  Just four hours a week can be enough to get you and your horse ready for show season. Remember, though, to keep these tips I found in mind for more successful and safe rides.

Snow packed in a horse's hooves can make walking difficult and possibly cause lameness. credit

• When it's cold and weather conditions are harsh, everyone wants to use the indoor arena, causing it to become quite crowded. If your schedule will allow, riding when it is less busy can make your rides more successful.
• Make sure to thoroughly groom your horse. Grooming increases circulation, warming the muscles. Also check to make sure his hooves has no snow and ice in them.
• Warming the saddle and bit using heating pads can make the ride more comfortable for your horse.
• Be careful when longeing your horse. Often, an energetic horse will buck, straining a cold muscle or slipping and hurting himself.
• Before moving to the more intense part of your ride, make sure your horse is properly warmed up, since cold muscles are easily injured. In cold temperatures, warming up often takes a little longer than usual, so take your time to thoroughly warm your horse, preventing injury.
• If temperatures are below 20 F, it is best not to work your horse strenuously.
• When you trailer your horse, make sure the trailer is in good condition and doesn't have a draft flowing through it. If it is below 50 F and your horse has been clipped, you may want to consider blanketing him for the trip.
• Make sure your horse's water is not cold, frozen, or dirty.
• Turn off or unplug uneccessary appliances or ones not in use to prevent barn fires. 
• Setting goals, even small ones, can help you prepare for show season. Even if you do not show, setting goals and working on them can distract you from the gloominess of winter.

Common Equine Winter Ailments

 Winter, for some, means bitter cold and snow, while for others it means lots of rain and mud. Nevertheless, no matter where you live, you still must watch out for similar ailments in your horse.

Mud Fever
 Mud fever is an infection caused by Dermatophilus congolensis. As the name suggests, it only occurs during moist conditions, such as when a horse stays muddy too long. It causes painful, inflamed sores full of bacteria to erupt on the horse's legs. These scabs carry bacteria and must be gently removed.

 According to Melissa Shelton, DVM, mixing 10-20 drops of lavender essential oil with 4 ounces distilled water into a spritz bottle, then spraying several times a day on the affected area, often relieves the condition. Oils like Roman chamomile and geranium also work well.

 You can even apply the Animal Scents Ointment to the wounds. Just be careful not to hurt your horse while applying it.

 Dr. Shelton also recommends using oregano or Thieves essential oil blend orally for bacterial infections by placing a drop on the horse's lower lip. Be warned, though, that those oils are strong and should only be used in more severe conditions. Even then, you should probably dilute it by mixing it into a moist feed.

 The affected horse should be keep inside a stable if possible while his wounds heal.

Click to enlarge.

Rain Scald
 Rain scald is similar to mud fever and is caused by the same bacteria. It mostly occurs on the back of a horse that has been body clipped and is lacking his winter coat. Again, the spray I mentioned earlier is recommended.

Colic
 Colic can be caused by multiple different factors, such as the horse eating quickly. If horse horse colics, you should call your vet. Check out my post about colic for more information.

Lameness
 In the winter, with the ground likely being frozen or muddy, lameness often occurs. Be careful when you ride and make sure you thoroughly pick out snow and ice when you are done.

Thrush
 Be on the look out for thrush, a hoof ailment that causes the frog to secrete a black, oily substance. thrush is caused by the horse standing on wet, muddy ground for extended periods of time.

 As with anything, prevention is best. Check your horse regularly to make sure he is dry and warm.

Blanket Guide

 Cold weather is on its way, so its time to start thinking about blanketing your horse, supposing he has been body clipped. There are many types of blankets, running from sheets to heavyweight ones with fleece liners. Some have hoods and tail flaps, others do not. Because there are so many to chose from, it is important to know exactly what your decisions are and what words like "denier" mean. 

Weight

 The first thing to think about is what kind of blanket your horse will need. Will he need only a sheet, which will keep out the wind and rain but not protect him in colder temperatures(below 50 F or 10 C), or will he need a midweight blanket, which will protect a clipped horse in the 30s and 40s F(-1 to 10 C)? If you live in a climate that gets down to the 20s(-6.6 to -1 C), your clipped horse will need a heavyweight, if below that, he may need a fleece liner underneath his heavyweight blanket. In the 50s and above, unclipped horses generally do not need a blanket, other than a sheet if it is windy and rainy. They may need a lightweight in 30s and 40s, a midweight in the 20s and 30s, and a midweight with a liner below 20 F.

I decided to make a diagram about blankets.

Type

 If you plan on keeping your horse in the pasture or outdoors all winter, you will need turnout blanket, which is more durable than a stable blanket, used only indoors. Another variation of the stable blanket is a stable sheet. This doesn't give the horse warmth, but can be used before a show to keep him clean.

Styles

 Many blankets come with extra parts to give the horse even more warmth. These may include neck covers, which as the name states, covers the horse's neck. Others come with hoods, a neck over that also comes over the face, or even high necks, much like high collars. In some blankets, neck covers and hoods are removable. 

Type of Fabric

 There are also other things to remember before you go and buy your blanket. For example, some blankets are breathable, meaning they allow body heat to escape, preventing your horse from overheating. Others are ballistic. These are tough and hard to tear, perfect for the horse that often breaks his blanket. A moisture-wicking blanket draws away moisture and sweat, while a water-proof one protects against rain. If you think your horse might tear the blanket, get a ripstop one, a design that prevents rips from spreading. Finally, polypropylene is a strong, lightweight blanket that is fairly water-resistant. 

Parts of Blanket

 Another good thing to know is the different parts of a blanket. The surcingle is the main strap, wrapping underneath the belly. Other straps include leg straps, elastic straps that wrap around your horse's hind legs, holding the blanket in place, and tail cords, which wrap underneath the tail. 

 Most blankets feature shoulder gussets, pleated triangular shapes that allow the horse to move his front legs more freely. They also feature tail flaps. These flaps cover the tail and stop cold air from blowing underneath the blanket. For extra protection, some manufacturers cover their seams.

Insulation and Density

 There are two words that are commonly used to describe the blanket's insulation and density: fill weight and denier. Fill weight represents how much polyfill is in the blanket and is measured in grams. The more polyfill, the warmer the blanket. Denier is another important word to remember. It is the ratio between the weight of the blanket and the density of the strings used to weave each thread. The higher the denier, the stronger the fabric.

There is so much to keep in mind when buying blankets, but doing so can ensure that both you and your horse are happy during the winter.

Winter Care for Horses: Dos and Not Dos

 Winter is coming up. For some places, that means snow, for others, it means chilling rain. Regardless of where you are, it is essential to know how to feed and care for your horse in that particular season. Malory, at the Country Hitching Post, is doing a post about winter care, and I decided research and compile a list of 10 to do things and 10 not to do things.

Winter is almost upon us, so it is important to know how to care
for your horse in this season.

To Do

1. If it is very cold(below freezing), rainy, windy, or/and snowy, feed your horse extra fiber. Hay works best, as the horse's body creates heat when digesting.
2. Check your horses weight often, removing the blanket(if he has one) and feeling his body. It is very easy for him to lose weight in the winter.
3. Make sure your horse's water hasn't iced over or is cold. Cold water may reduce drinking or cause colic, so it is beneficial to warm it up before giving it to your horse to drink. Bucket heaters may be available at your boarding barn or online, just remember not to let the water boil. Lukewarm is good enough. 
4. If it gets icy or snowy where you are, you may have to replace you horse's shoes with snow shoes, or take them off altogether. Snow shoes are made specifically for icy conditions, giving the horse more traction and preventing snow and ice from getting stuck in his shoe, possibly causing lameness. Often, it is best just to take the shoes off unless your horse needs them. 
5. Even if your horse has a winter coat, you may need to give him a light blanket if it is rainy or windy.
6. Many people body clip their horses. If you do, make sure you have blankets for your horse, some that will protect him well enough in your climate. For some, than will just be a thin blanket. Others will need a thicker one.
7. Some parasites survive, even in the winter, though this is more common in warmer climates, such as California. Make sure you deworm your horse to protect him from these parasites.
8. Pick out your horses hooves daily, getting rid of snow and ice buildup. 
9. Warmer climates can also mean thrush, a hoof ailment that causes the frog to produce a black, oily substance.
10. Many horses do well if they are kept outside. However, they should always have access to a shelter, such as a three-sided run-in. 

Not to Do

1. Do not let your horse's water trough freeze over or get too cold.
2. Do not let your horse just sit around in the pasture. He needs exercise! Try to ride him as often as possible, even if that means ride in the cold. Snow sometimes gets in the way, and not all people have access to an indoor, so lungeing him or turning him out to a paddock or pasture for a little bit will work out just fine.
3. Do not ride to hard if your horse is out of shape. Sometimes you only have time for an occasional  ride or only ride when the weather isn't terrible. If you do, take care not to overwork your horse. Start out small and work up to more difficult exercises.
4. Do not keep your horse indoors all winter. it is more healthy for the horse to be turned out with a shelter to keep out the wind, rain, and snow. However, if it is not possible to keep him outdoors, at least keep doors and windows open in the barn to allow airflow and take your horse out daily.
5. Do not over-blanket. This is a common mistake among newbies. They see their un-blanketed horse out in the freezing cold paddock and think, "The poor thing must be cold," giving him a blanket or two. Horses do not get as cold as people do. often, a winter coat and a thin blanket is good enough. 
6. Do not neglect to care for your horses hooves. Some people do not do this when it is cold, but in reality, horses may need even more hoof care in the winter, when ice can buildup in there hooves.
7. Do not forget to groom. Your horse needs to be groomed, even in the cold. This keeps him healthy and clean.
8. Do not let your horse sit in the pasture without touching him until the spring. Daily maintenance–grooming, hoof picking, watering, feeding–can be hard when it is freezing outside and you prefer to sit by the toasty fire, but it needs to be done.
9. Do not forget to give him extra fiber. This includes hay, and sometimes even corn oil.
10. Do not forget about yourself! While it is important that your baby is taken care, do not forget about taking care of yourself. Bundle up. Wear gloves and toe warmers. Do whatever it takes to stay warm and healthy while taking care of your horse. the last thing you want is to catch a cold. 

Keep these tips in mind to make sure you and your horse stay healthy and taken care of this winter. Stay tuned for my post about blanketing, which I'll post up later this week or next week.